For the history of gin (1650) see:
http://cocktails.about.com/library/weekly/aa080899.htm
The Household Cyclopedia (1881) gives a Dutch and an English recipe:
"To Prepare Gin as in Holland" using a proof spirit distilled from a
rye, barley malt mash. Scaled down and converted to metric it
consists of macerating 17.5g of juniper berries and 0.75ml (15drops)
of juniper oil in 1 litre of proof spirit and redistilling.
"English Genever" is made by macerating 35g of juniper berries in 1
litre of proof spirit with added water and redistilling.
Some distillers have the alcohol vapor pass through the botanicals
(in a gin head), others macerate together and redistill while others
distill various botanicals separately, and then blend, because
different oils have different boiling points. I suspect some modern
gins add essential oils to a neutral spirit instead of redistilling
with botanicals.
Dutch gin (genever) is based on a heavier spirit made from a mash of
wheat, rye and malted barley distilled in pot stills.It is often
stated wrongly that genever uses only juniper. Other botanicals are
used. It's the method used which gives genever its distinctive style.
Bols, passes the vapor in a 4th distillation over the juniper berries.
Triple distillation is common, and juniper is normally introduced in
the second distillation, with the other botanicals being added to the
3rd (or sometimes 4th) distillation. Notaris redistills with juniper,
while a 3rd blending component is distilled with other botanicals
separately. The end result of combining a richer spirit and a higher
percentage of juniper is a spirit which is more powerfully textured
than London gin.
Old genevers were straw-colored and pungently sweet. Early English
gin was also a juniper-laden drink flavored with glycerine and sugar
syrup (Old Tom). Plymouth gin claims to be the first distillery to
produce a dry, crystal-clear gin in the late 18th century. Gin was a
perfect medium for bitters (to prevent stomach problems), lime juice
(to prevent scurvy), and Schweppe's Tonic Water cotaining quinine (to
prevent malaria).
There are 2 main ways to make gin: redistilling a neutral spirit
which has had botanicals added to it (Distilled Gin); or adding
essential oils (cold compounding). Distilled Gin (on label) is
superior.
The pot stills used have high necks for more reflux than the usual
whisky stills.
All distilleries have their secret rcipe of botanicals and how they
put them in varies. Some put the botanicals in for only a short time
before redistilling, others steep them for 24 hours before
distilling, others pass vapor through a basket holding the botanicals.
Not all botanical aromas appear at the same time. After a quick
foreshots run, the volatile citrus notes appear, then come juniper
and coriander, then the roots such as orris, angelica and liquorice.
The length of the run is important. The alcohol concentration of the
final product is also important as citric notes are the most
volatile, and should be greater than 40%abv. Some duty-free gins are
50%abv.
All brands use juniper and coriander, but Gordons uses ginger, cassia
oil and nutmeg. Beefeater uses bitter orange peel as well as angelica
root and seed. Plymouth's 7 botanicals include sweet orange peel and
cardamon. Sapphire uses the now rarely seen cubeb berries (India) and
grains of paradise (Ghana).
For convenience I have scaled down and rounded the quantities for the
recipes for Dutch Geneva, Cordial gin and dry London Gins
from 'Muspratt Chemistry'. I have assumed that the
botanicals will be macerated in 1 litre of 50%abv and then
redistilled. 42%abv is the original strength of Plymouth Gin. I have
also doubled the quantity for bitter almonds as the original used
pressed bitter almond cake and almonds contain about 50% oil. For the
cordial gins, double the quantity of botanicals and then dilute to 22%
abv. I have omitted the 'West Country Gin' as it contains only 2g of
juniper/litre and a total of about 35g/litre of botanicals seems to
be an optimal quantity.
Recipe 1 (from 'The Book of Gin & Vodkas', Bob Emmons)
BASIC GIN
juniper 22.5g
coriander 11.5g
cassia 2.5g
angelica root 2.5g
lemon peel 0.25g
cardamon 0.25g
Recipe 2
BRITISH GIN
juniper 15g
coriander 15g
bitter almonds 12g
angelica root 0.25g
liquorice root 1g
Recipe 3
CORDIAL GIN
juniper 10g
coriander 7.5g
bitter almonds 1.5g
orris root 0.25g
angelica root 0.25g
cardamon 0.06g
liquorice root 1g
Recipe 4
CORDIAL GIN
juniper 10g
coriander 7.5g
orris root 0.25g
angelica root 0.125g
calamus root 0.25g
cardamon 0.05g
Recipe 5
FINE GIN
juniper 10g
coriander 0.5g
grains of paradise 0.5g
angelica root 0.5g
orris root 0.25g
calamus root 0.25g
orange peel 0.25g
liquorice root 10g (optional)
Recipe 6
LONDON GIN
juniper 10g
coriander 10g
bitter almonds 1g
angelica root 0.25g
liquorice root 1g
Recipe 7
BASIC GENEVA
juniper 10g
coriander 12g
cassia 0.6g
angelica root 0.5g
calamus root 0.6g
bitter almonds 1.2g
cardamon 0.05g
Recipe 8
PLAIN GENEVA
juniper 10g
coriander 10g
calamus root 0.25g
bitter almonds 0.5g
orris root 0.25g
Recipe 9
FINE GENEVA (highly recommended)
juniper 20g
coriander 8g
angelica root 1g
calamus root 0.25g
bitter almonds 3g
cardamon 0.125g
grains of paradise 1g
Recipe 10 (from 'The Household Encyclopedia')
ENGLISH GENEVA
juniper 35g
With the aim of formulating a standard model for gin botanical
quantities for the homedistiller, here is a table of the botanicals
used in 8 modern gins:
1) Tiger Gin
2) Gordon's Distilled London Dry Gin
3) Beefeater London Distilled Dry Gin
4) Plymouth Gin
5) Bombay Distilled London Dry Gin
6) Bombay Sapphire Distilled London Dry Gin
7) Mercury Gin
8) Juniper Green London Dry Gin
Botanicals used-------Gin Brand (see above)
-----------------------1-----2-----3-----4-----5-----6-----7-----8
Juniper---------------yes---yes---yes---yes---yes---yes---yes---yes
Coriander-------------yes---yes---yes---yes---yes---yes---yes---yes
Angelica root---------yes---------yes---yes---yes---yes---yes---yes
Cassia----------------yes---yes---yes---------yes---yes---yes
Cinnamon--------------yes------------------------------------------
Liquorice-------------yes---------yes---------yes---yes---yes------
Bitter almonds--------------------------------yes---yes---yes------
Grains of Paradise----------------------------------yes------------
Cubeb berries---------------------------------------yes------------
Bitter orange peel----------------yes------------------------------
Sweet orange peel-----yes---------------yes---------------yes------
Lemon peel------------yes---------yes---yes---yes---yes---yes------
Ginger----------------------yes------------------------------------
Orris root------------yes---------------yes---yes---yes---yes------
Cardamon--------------yes---------------yes------------------------
Nutmeg----------------yes---yes------------------------------------
Savory----------------------------------------------------------yes
Calamus (sweet flag)-----------------------------------------------
Chamomile (?)------------------------------------------------------
The total amount of botanicals used is about 20-35 grams/litre.
If we take the dominant botanical juniper as 'x', the proportions of
the botanicals used is:
- x = juniper
- x/2 = coriander
- x/10 = angelica, cassia, cinnamon, liquorice, bitter almonds, grains
of paradise, cubeb berries
- x/100 = bitter & sweet orange peel, lemon peel, ginger, orris root,
cardamon, nutmeg, savory, calamus, chamomile.
If we use x = 20g then x/2 = 10g, x/10 = 2g, x/100 = 0.2g (200mg)
Some current gins do not have a pronounced juniper character as they
are used for cocktails and are more of a flavored vodka - for this
type of gin for 'x' use equal quantities for juniper & coriander
(i.e. x = 20g composed of 10g of juniper & 10g of coriander)
The botanical are macerated in 45%abv neutral alcohol (usuallyfor 24
hours), redistilled and then diluted to 42%abv which is an optimal
strength for holding the flavour of the botanicals. Only the middle
run (80-85%abv) is used to produce a high quality gin. Plymouth Gin
also comes in a 57%abv 'Navy Strength' and which is also the British
100 proof strength.
All gins include juniper as an ingredient along with other
botanicals. Typically a fine gin contains 6-10 botanicals, although
the Dutch Damask Gin has 17 and the French Citadelle Gin has 19 but
this could be more for marketing reasons and has been criticised for
lacking direction.
Botanical names:
juniper - juniperus communis
coriander - coriandrum sativum
angelica - archangelica officinalis
cassia - cinnamomum cassia
cinnamon - cinnamomum zeylanicum
liquorice - glycyrrihiza sp.
bitter almond - prunus dulcis, amara
grains of paradise - afromumum melegueta
cubeb berries - piper cubeba
bitter orange - citrus aurantium
sweet orange - citrus sinensis
lemon - citrus limon
ginger - zingiber officinale
orris root - iris florentina
cardamon - elletaria cardamomum
nutmeg - myristica fragrans
savory - satureja hortensis
calamus - acorus calamus
chamomile - matricaria chamomilla
The usual mash for English gin is 75% maize, 15% barley malt and 10%
other grains, although rectified spirit from molasses is also used.
Dutch gin originally was made from 1/3 malted barley and 2/3 rye
meal, although these days the proportions given is 1/3 malted barley,
1/3 rye, 1/3 maize.
The Dutch figure prominently in the history of distilling. With their
business acumen, they were quick to make a guilder when the
opportunity arose.
The first recorded distillation of gin (eau de vie de genievre)is in
1572 by Franciscus Sylvius a physic of Leiden, and it was meant as a
health tonic based on juniper berries. Lucas Bols, the father of
commercial gin production, built his first distillery in 1575 near
Amsterdam. The first recorded commercial liqueur was Lucas Bol's
Kummel. It was meant as an aid for digestion i.e. as a digestive.
It's based on caraway seeds which are believed to aid digestion and
prevent flatulence.
The use of caraway flavored spirits are still
common from Holland to Latvia. Caraway has a yield of essential oils
from about 3-7%, therefore you would need to macerate about 100 grams
of crushed seeds in 40%abv and then to redistill to get a caraway
flavored spirit. This would have about a teaspoon (5ml or 100 drops)
of caraway essential oil. Using a commercial essential oil is another
alternative. Here is a basic recipe for those with a flatulence
problem:
Kummel
- 750ml (3 metric cups) of caraway flavored alcohol 40%vol (5ml
essential oil/litre i.e. redistill 100g crushed seeds in 1L 40%abv)
- 1 cup sugar
- 1/2 cup water
Make a simple syrup and add to the alcohol
You could also make a caraway flavored vodka by maceration:
- 1 litre vodka 40%abv
- 60g (2oz) lightly crushed caraway seeds (4tbsp)
- 60g (2oz) sugar (1/2 cup), or to taste.
Macerate for 10 days and strain.
Pacharan (Patxaran) is a Spanish Basque specialty made by macerating
sloe berries (blackthorn, prunus spinosa)in a dry anise flavored
alcohol with other herbs and spices.Sloe Gin is made by macerating sloe berries in gin. Here are two
recipes from "Wine Making & Home Brewing" S. Beedell (1970):
Sloe Gin 1
- 1 gallon (4.5L) gin
- 3 and 1/2 (1.6 kg) lb white sugar
- 3 oz (85 g) bitter almonds
- 3 quarts (3L) sloes
- Put all the ingredients into a 2 gallon (9L) jar and shake 2-3 times
a week. Strain and bottle at the end of 2 months.
Sloe Gin 2
- Put 3 pints (1.7L) of sloes in a gallon jar (4.5L) with
- 1 oz (30g) of sweet almonds and
- 1 and 1/2 lb (700g) of white sugar.
- Pour in 2 quarts (2l) of gin and cover.
- Shake the jar every third day for 3 months. Strain,
bottle and seal. The gin improves with keeping.
I have a Ukrainian recipe .. for a 'Ternivka'
or Sloe Vodka. It relies
on wild yeasts to weakly ferment the sloes.
Ternivka (Sloe Vodka)
Fill a large jar with ripe sloe (blackthorn) berries that have been
pricked in several places. Sprinkle with sugar. Cover neck and let it
stand in the sun for 6 weeks. When fermentation has ceased add to
every 10 kg (20 lb) of berries 500 ml (1 pt) of vodka. Let it stand
for several months. Strain. Add more vodka (quantity not given, but
going by sloe gin recipe it could be up to 10 litres or 20 pts).
The English make a Plum
Gin from Damson plums, which are related to the French Mirabelle
plum, from which the well-known eau-de-vie de Mirabelle is made.
Here are two recipes for Damson Gin from "Winemaking and Home
Brewing", S. Beedell (1970).
Damson Gin (Fortified) 1
- 1 lb (500 g) damsons
- 1 and 1/2 pts (850 ml) gin
- 3/4 lb (350 g) sugar
Mix all together, and shake well two or three times a day till the
sugar is dissolved. Store for at least a year before using.
Damson Gin (Fortified) 2
- Damsons
- Cloves
- Essence of almonds
- Unsweetened gin
- Sugar candy
Wipe the damsons, removing stalks, and prick each one in several
places with a pin. Prepare some dry quart (litre) bottles, and half
fill them with the fruit. To each bottle add 1 clove, 2 oz (60 g) of
crushed sugar candy and a few drops of essence of almonds. Then fill
up with unsweetened gin. Cork securely, and keep in a warmish place
for 3 months, shaking occasionally. Strain the gin until it is clear
then rebottle and cork well, and store until wanted.
Pacharan is a Spanish liqueur.
- 1 litre dry aniseed flavored alcohol (e.g. arak,raki,ouzo or you
could add 4tsp aniseed to 1litre of vodka)
- 250 g sloe berries (blackthorn, prunus spinosa)
- 2 tbsp sugar
- stick of cinnamon
- 6 coffee beans
- camomile flowers (say 1 tsp)
- dry orange peel
Macerate the sloe berries in the alcohol until it becomes a
characteristic intense red, then add sugar, coffee beans,camomile
flowers,cinnamon, orange peel. Macerate for at least 30 days. Strain.
Variations of the above exist. The use of sloe beries is reminiscent of English sloe gin.